I love Little Italy. It’s like a charming, run down Italian theme park. From the early 70’s.

Dozens of Dynasty-era eateries line Mulberry Street, most with appealing (and slightly dingy) outdoor seating. You don’t come to Little Italy for the amazing food. Everyone knows that. Just look up most of these places on Yelp. You come for the ambiance, the mauve and taupe color scheme and awesome people watching.

And maybe for the cannoli carts scattered about. Oh, and the year-round Christmas store.

Something to note, you must order correctly at any of these restaurants. Don’t get anything fancy or complicated. These are red sauce joints. Order something with red sauce! Or Alfredo. Get something with Bolognese or, better yet, Spaghetti and Meatballs. Dishes that are almost impossible to screw up.

Both of the dishes we ordered were excellent, actually! Some of the best Bolognese I’ve ever had. The bruschetta was a little sad, but we added the free herbed olive oil from the complimentary table bread and spruced it up. Service was fast and friendly.

Prices are a bit steep for cheesy Italian fare, so be warned. And you will encounter only very traditional dishes. Nothing fusion. Nothing creative. Nothing organic or farm-to-table. These places serve an Olive Garden menu, with a slightly more authentic flare. But there’s something in the air here. In the summer, there’s nothing like sitting outside, drinking a glass of scary looking red wine and watching the world pass you by.

129 Mulberry St
New York, NY 10013
b/t Hester St & Grand St
Little Italy, Chinatown
(212) 431-3934
dagennarorestaurant.com

Complimentary Table Bread

BRUSCHETTE $ 8.99
Diced mozzarella and tomato in olive oil and herbs, on toasted bread

TORTELLINI ALLA BOLOGNESE $ 17.99
Tortellini in a home-made meat sauce

POLLO ALLA SORRENTINA $ 18.99
Breast of chicken with prosciutto and eggplant, sautéed in brown sauce and white wine, and topped with melted mozzarella